Milan Fashion Week brought all of the expected opulence and excess it is famed for, interspersed with a heavy dose of Great Gatsby/Grey Gardens inspiration (which makes sense, as Prada are doing the costumes for the upcoming remake of the Great Gatsby) and tartan. In amongst this were the enduring themes of New York and London – leather, bomber jackets and masculine tailoring.
The stand out collection for me was Fausto Puglisi, who served up the kind of collection Ricardo Tisci might if he had an unlimited gift card for the John Lewis haberdashery. That might sound like a criticism, but I bloody love the John Lewis haberdashery. Despite a grammatically appalling website, definitely have a look if you’re not familiar with the brand, as this is only his second collection, so I’m imagining some really great things to come.
Here’s a selection of the best looks from MFW.
Masculine tailoring, a boxy silhouette and BIG OL’ SHOULDERS. A recurring trend that has evolved through 1930s Schiaparelli, drink throwing and handbag hurling in Dynasty, 80s Head Bitch In Charge power dressing and Michael Jackson wearing 2011 Balmain til it was threadbare, strong shoulders and a boxy silhouette made a lasting impression in the SS13 shows.
An emphasis on the shoulders has, through the years, become a symbol of establishing authority, projecting a hard, no-nonsense image for women through times that have been both socially and economically tough on women. Giving a strong, commanding silhouette, masculine and memorable, this trend is the absolute antithesis to Versace/Dolce and Gabbana et al’s hypersexualised sex-worker bodycon nightmare.
Even if I didn’t like metallics, I’d do this post just as an excuse to post this bad boy:
80s djs in shell suits. Ageing prostitutes in PVC. Drag queens in gold lamé. Tins of Quality Street. All important and exciting fashion reference points reflected in SS13’s mens collections. From a subtle sheen on classic suits at Hardy Amies to a full on wipe-clean visual assault in fuschias, greens and purples on trenches and shirts at Burberry, men’s metallics is a highly versatile, wearble trend, the perfect antidote to the dreary weather and a great style update for classic suits and shirts.
For years prints had been firmly a feminine fashion feature, with particular prevalence on the catwalk over the last few seasons, with men’s prints only getting as exciting as “wacky” office ties, your grandad’s pyjamas, and the Casette Playa-esque/probable sex offender Timmy Mallet.
But for SS13, there must have been something in the air as a slew of collections led to men’s prints taking on a life of their own Paris, London, Milan and New York fashion weeks. From sharp geometric shapes at Fendi, to soft florals at Christopher Kane and even..er…whales at Thom Browne.
THE FIRST POST, THE POST THAT HURTS THE MOST.
Here is Donatella Versace, in an image taken from my New Years Eve make-up moodboard. I achieved this look by blending liberal amounts of Smirnoff Ice with fistfuls of Collection 2000 glitter eyeliner. A look that I am sure I will be replicating many times in the year to come. Timeless. Classic. Haute.
I’m jumping on the ‘new year, new blog’ bandwagon, I need to exorcise my picture folders! I will be updating daily, so please check back!