With London Fashion Week starting today, let’s take a look back at the best that New York had to offer. By the looks of things, we’re all in for a right old miserable time this winter.
With the first look at AW13, New York brought contrasting textures and materials, sharp lines, geometric shapes, quilting, panelling and an abundance of leather for both menswear and womenswear. And if you’re in the market for a bomber jacket next season, you’re spoilt for choice.
Womenswear tailoring was oversized and masculine, breaking up a palette of black and greys, with flashes of cobalt blue and bright purples. Make up was natural and understated with hair worn down and centre parted. For the boys, the look was slick side partings and short fringes. The message wasn’t so much ‘girls will be boys’, but rather, girls will be MEN. Masculine shapes for upper wear teamed with sharp leather skirts and thigh-high boots put the girls firmly in defense mode, with the boys swathed in impenetrable bomber jackets, kilts, shorts and leggings and lace-up boots. If New York is anything to go by, next season your clothes will also be your armour.
Patterns spread like wildfire across both the mens and womens SS13 collections, but womenswear was all about the clash. When I was a young man, clashing prints were the proviso of ~wacky~ art teachers whose questionable sartorial choices could be blamed on inhaling too many “paint fumes”. Fast forward to SS13 and florals, plaids, geometric prints, marbling and every other combination imaginable is one of the most prevalent womenswear trends. A great way to break up an outfit, accentuate textures and layers, this is also a great trend for those of us whose attitude to getting dressed in the morning is a ‘throw everything on the floor onto my body’ approach…
I love a
bad good wordplay almost as much as I love a bit of sheer panneling. Sheer used to remind me of those awful nylon babydoll things you see on market stalls up and down the country, worn by middle aged women who flash the milkman. Here’s an example of what I found when I searched ‘sheer’ in tumblr (tastefully edited to spare your blushes).
But thankfully, sheer doesn’t have to equal trashy. An incredibly wearable, versatile trend, there are lots of good sheer pieces available on the high street, more of which in another post. SS13 showed us the versatility of the sheer trend through subtly sexy panelling at Helmut Lang, sporty at Preen, romantic at Jason Wu and boyish grunge at Prabal Gurung.
Following on from my previous post, my final picks of the pre-fall collections.
RAG AND BONE