Tagged: paris fashion week

CATWALKER, CATWALKING

Here’s a rundown of this season’s 10 most booked catwalkers for AW13. Unsurprisingly, they’re all white, and it would seem that ‘blank canvas’ was very much the casting trend. A good turn for British models, with one girl in the top five (hay Sam), and also an amazing season for two of my favourite girls, Tilda Lindstam and Kel Markey. Tilda seems to be getting a fair bit of flak for taking the top spot, accusations of “basicness” are being thrown around (which seems ridiculous as compared to some of the others in the top 10 she’s basically Giselle), but in terms of fitting in with the theme this season she’s ‘plain’ enough to be versatile in any look, but she’s not a total no-mark, there’s definitely something special about her. She’s not classically beautiful, but she’s also not scary-quirky and there is definitely a place in fashion for “pretty” rather than DROP DEAD STUNNING girls. Look at the difference between Kate Moss compared to Naomi Campbell, for example, you can’t say they’re not both iconic looking, but for totally different reasons. It’ll be interesting to see how many campaigns the top 10 get, I’m really hoping Julia Nobis gets a few, I love an androgynous model and the fact that she’s not androgynous in an overtly sexual way (e.g Andrej Pejic, Erika Linder et al) could be really interesting for campaigns. Anyway, here’s the top 10 bitches cashing cheques this season.

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10. Juliana Schurig, American, (DNA, Premier, Elite Milan & Paris) – 60 shows total, opened 2, closed 0

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9. Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Danish, (Marilyn, Storm, Elite Milan & Paris) – 60, O4, C2

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8. Julia Frauche, French, (Next WW) – 62, O1, C

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7. Julia Nobis , Australian, (DNA, Premer, Elite Milan & Paris) – 62, O3, C7

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6. Magdalena Jasek, Polish, (Marilyn, Select, Why Not & Marilyn) – 63, O1, C2

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5. Marine Deleeuw, French, (The Society, Premier, Why Not & Elite) – 63, O2, C4

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4. Sam Rollinson, British, (NYMM, Select, Women Milan & Paris) – 64, O2, C2

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3. Ashleigh Good, British, (Ford, Storm, Why Not & Elite) – 64, O7, C4

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2. Kel Markey, American, (Supreme, Select, Women Milan & Paris) – 65, O3, C2

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1. Tilda Lindstam, Swedish, (IMG WW) – 76, O2, C2

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AW13 / PFW / ROUND-UP

Ahhh bonjour ma petite tasse! Regardez-vous ma blog post de Paris Fashion Week! As you can tell, I’m basically fluent in French, it’s one of my many talents. For those not as clever as me at French, here’s a round-up of the sartorial offerings from Paris Fashion Week.

STOP. BALMAIN TIME! An 80s wipe-clean wonderland, Balmain was every theatrical tin-foil fashion hope and more, we have Balmain in at my work all the time, can’t wait to try and shoe-horn myself into the amazing waistcoat outfit on the right, rip it, and be evicted because I can’t pay for it. ASPIRATIONAL!

Balmain

Balmain

Alexander Wang’s much anticipated first collection since his controversial appointment at Balenciaga. And it wasn’t horrible. It’s still very much Wang-esque (not a word I’ll use again, promise) but with undeniable Christobal influence. I liked it, it’s a nice return to the classic, clean Balenciaga, rather than the ultra modernism Ghesquiere brought with his metal leggings/Egyptofunk/riding hats etc, which I loved, but I don’t think Wang could have followed on from or replicated in the same vein without it looking like some kind of shit Project Runway ~modernism~ challenge.

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Sacai

Sacai

I know leather panelling has been done over and over and over, but I want this, all of this, and variations of this, forever.

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Really enjoying the Brave New World/Handmaid’s Tale minimal ~dystopian sexuality~ here, and how could I not love the wimple. I’m all about a wimple. I’m not ususally a huge fan of Mugler, but the simplicity, and the murky blue with crisp white, speaks to my inner future gimp.

Mugler

Mugler

Manish Arora

Manish Arora

Kenzo

Kenzo

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

Each season Givenchy is usually my go-to, but the disparity between the menswear (99% of the time, amazing) and the womenswear (67% of the time, amazing) starts to show more and more. I love the floral leather biker and the quilted bomber, super, but the random sequinned arm? The cheap ill-fitting mesh? The shiny polka-dots? This both confuses and upsets me.

Givenchy

Givenchy

These are my dream outfits until I’m thin enough to slip under my office door, rather than walking through it. Probably not very practical day to day (getting closed in bus doors, dropping Tesco Value lasagne down yourself, cycling – all trials I face daily) but commanding and beautiful all the same. I do miss the structured, body-con Pugh of olde, but a shift in silhouette hasn’t lost the dark drama he’s built his brand on.

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

Felipe Oliviera Baptista

Felipe Oliviera Baptista

Devastee

Devastee

Acne

Acne

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

I’m not ususally a fan of Valentino, not nearly enough black, leather or androgyny for me, but this china plate-esque collection has reminded me that I AM A GIRL, HERE ME SQUEAL!

Valentino

Valentino

Do you feel dizzy? Disorientated? It might be to do with Yves Saint Laurent spinning so hard in his grave that the Earth is turning faster than usual. #SOFTGRUNGELAURENT HAS STRUCK AGAIN. Hedi’s latest collection (and we know how much I enjoyed his last menswear offering) has been met with a resounding NON from critics, and rightly so.  His access to the Topshop throw-out must be STOPPED.

Saint Laurent Paris

Saint Laurent Paris

This season marks Claire Wright Keller’s fourth at the helm of Chloe, and it’s definitely her best yet. Probably my favourite collection from Paris, simple and minimal with great tailoring and a perfect colour palette.

Chloe

Chloe

Chloe

Chloe

Who invented the tartan laundry bag? Has anyone got his email? He’s definitely been ripped off at Celine. Blatant plagiarism aside, Celine was it’s usual super self, a really nice palette and pleasing oversized yet tailored shapes (so excited to put on 15 stone before winter and be able to shop at Celine rather than Millets!).

Celine

Celine

WHY CAN’T I BE YOU? VOL V: VIKA GAZINSKAYA

Contrary to what this blog might imply, I don’t spend all my time wishing I was other people. If I did that I wouldn’t have time for my other hobby – eating.

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Anyway, Vika is a womenswear designer off of Russia. She began showing in SS07, following a stint as fashion assistant at Russian L’Officiel and a year spent freelance styling. Her designs are, as you can imagine from her personal style, feature very classic, clean shapes, innately feminine without being fussy or overtly sexy.

The 31 year old, like my other obsession Anya Ziourova, is is part of the new breed of Russian style obsessives breaking down the Russian fashionista stereotype of WAGs in micro minks, Fendi sandals and Louis Vuitton everything. Vika is at Paris Fashion Week this season, I’m as excited for the actual show as I am for photos of her out and about.

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21 from sample to staple hanneli paris-fwaw2011-vika-gazinskaya sartorialist2 vika_hor_jpg_1328516211 vika-gazinskaia Vika-Gazinskaya vika-vikagazinskaya

SS13 TREND REPORT/ WOMENS/ RUFFLE SHUFFLE

SS13’s ruffles and pleats ranged from delicate and understated in London at James Long and JW Anderson to the theatrical and in-your-face in Paris at Chanel and Balenciaga. I’ve always been quite wary of ruffles, I think I’d look more My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding than Givenchy, but the simplicity and minimalism of the pieces at JW Anderson particularly have made me think that ruffles and pleats could be worth revisiting, and could be a great way to try and at least vaguely summer-ise my wardrobe.

Vita Gottlieb

Vita Gottlieb

balenc 4

Balenciaga

Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

James Long

James Long

Givenchy

Givenchy

Chanel

Chanel