My latest sartorial girl crush is Carlotta Oddi, major babe and assistant to tits-mental Vogue Nippon editor Anna della Russo. Stylistically, (and for her sake, I hope mentally, have you seen the ‘Fashion Shower’ video?) the polar opposite of AdR, Carlotta’s outfits encompass all of my favourite things – heavy menswear and streetwear influences, prints, I also love that unlike a lot of high-profile streetstyle favourites, she’s loyal to a piece and not precious about piece repetition – for example, her Opening Ceremony varsity, and Balenciaga leather biker, which when I was considering buying it, upon trying it on made me look more like a badly wrapped barrel, SAD TIMES.
The mens shows got off to a good start, with a really strong season from the new major players of London fashion – standouts included variations on a theme, androgynous menswear and experimental cuts from JW Anderson, pleasing prints from LCM babies Agi & Sam and heavy sports influences from Christopher Shannon. Paris really stuck with the enduring prints theme, Frankie Morello went for burger and sushi prints, Moschino showed lightning bolts amidst jewel-toned stripes and nerdy jacket and cardigan combinations, Paris brought the expected level of cool minimalism, Marni and Tillman Lauterbach were particular favourites.
Milan was…Milan…Dsquared2 was the usual display of maximum homoeroticism and minimal actual clothing, Etro took Mexican inspiration to rather a literal level, sending a heavily moustasched model down the catwalk in a whacking great sombrero. Probs not one we’re going to see on many street style blogs, but always a good go-to for fancy dress parties.
Overall, SS14 is looking good for menswear, lots of minimalism, androgyny, ~WaCkY pRiNtS~, with some added louche looks from Haider Ackermann’s quilted smoking jackets in a luxe pallette of wines and navys to Dries Van Noten’s muted tonal florals.
Surprising highlight collections for me were Iceberg and Opening Ceremony, both really clean and sharp, centered in the focus colours for next season – navys, blacks and creams/whites. I wasn’t sold on Givenchy’s prints this season, though for me the religious iconography was a real winner so it would’ve been hard to top anyway. I was surprised to like Louis Vuitton, usually not a collection I pay much notice to, but I really liked the Talented Mr Ripley vibes.
Obvs, there were some absolute car crashes. No surprises for guessing who I’m coming for here. Hedi Slimane continues his one-man destruction of Yves Saint Laurent, sorry, Soft Grunge Laurent, sorry, Saint Laurent Paris, every season managing to churn out more and more overly commercial, cheap sartorial high fives to dated pop culture references. This season the vibe is ‘Glam Rock by George at Asda’. (oh and obviously the standard set of models who wouldn’t look out of place in an in-patient facility. Good work, you absolute tit)
Moving on from blood-pressure raising train wrecks, here’s a look at recurrent themes for SS14.
ANDROGYNOUS / LADY PARTS
BLUE IS THE COLOUR
ALL WHITE EVERYTHING
“FLORALS FOR SPRING? GROUNDBREAKING”
KHAKIS/ NUDES/BEIGE/WHALE TUSK/OLD BISCUIT
Orange is a colour that generally I avoid like the plague. It tends to remind me of my time as the world’s worst waitress at Yo Sushi, constantly tripping over Hare Krishnas in Soho and the headache I get from looking at Kat Slater’s face if I’m hungover. However, orange pops up on the catwalk with alarming regularity, so facing my fears,
Alexander Wang Rocco bag, Nike trainers – Asos, Antonio Berardi skirt – Net a Porter, Topshop Boutique skirt, Christopher Kane t-shirt – farfetch.com, Juicy Couture shorts – Harvey Nichols, Givenchy bracelet – ssense.com, Theory biker jacket – mywardrobe.com, Proenza Schouler PS11 bag – Opening Ceremony, Burberry trench – stylebob.com
Proenza Schouler a/w 12, Celine s/s 11, Tory Burch a/w 10
As someone who generally prefers black to pretty much everything, it’s definitely going to take me a long time to learn to love orange. Maybe if I tape this to my desk it’ll work like aversion therapy and by the end of the week I’ll be head to toe…
The pre-fall collection is a relatively new concept, only picking up momentum over the past 10 years. Along with resort and cruise, it breaks up the gaps between traditional spring/summer and autumn/winter collections.
Hitting stores in May, this year’s pre-fall collections feature some of my favourite things: leather, oversized, masculine tailoring and patterned prints. Here’s a look at my top picks this year.
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
Part 2 to follow tomorrow!