With London Fashion Week and his SS14 collection just around the corner, here’s an interview I did with American menswear designer Shaun Samson last season for Platinum Love magazine.
I had a week off work, and somehow this turned into a week off from life in general, hence no posts. Anyway, the important issue here is Rad Hourani’s new unisex collection. I’m a big fan of Hourani in general, you know me, I’ve yet to meet a black androgynous look I didn’t like, but this new collection is a little bit special. The new collection, Unisex Couture, is only his ninth since launching in 2007, and features everything that is good in the world – a no-colour colour palette of black, white and grey, origami cuts and structured layering. Mmm, child. There’s a brilliant line on his website – “NO GENDER, NO SEASON, NO RULES”, which is also my attitude to my sex life. Bdum, tish.
“I STARTED IMAGINING CLOTHES THE SAME WAY I STARTED CREATING IMAGES: WITH A SENSE OF CURIOSITY AND INNOCENCE DRIVEN BY MY NO-BACKGROUND BACKGROUND. NO SCHOOL. NO TEACHERS. NO TELLY. NO BOUNDARIES. NO FORMATTING. I LIKE THE IDEA OF A WORLD THAT WE COULD LIVE AND SHAPE BY OURSELVES, ONLY BY OBSERVING. EACH OUR OWN. MY CLOTHES HAVE ERUPTED FROM THIS WORLD OF MINE. THEY ARE ASEXUAL, ASEASONAL, THEY COME FROM NO PLACE, NO TIME, NO TRADITION, YET THEY COULD BE HOME ANYWHERE, ANYTIME. THEY EXUDE A SENSE OF DISCREET CHIC, THE ESSENCE OF TIMELESS STYLE, DRAWN ON A MONOCHROMATIC AND GRAPHICAL CANVAS. PALETTE OF BLACKS AND SHADES OF TIMELESS COLORS. SOPHISTICATED UNISEX MODERN CLASSICS FOR ANTI-CONFORMIST INDIVIDUALS.” – RAD HOURANI
If I was writing about The Central Saint Martin’s MA AW13 shows in the style of a professional know-about-these things person, I would say it was a vibrant, engaging and theatrical display, showcasing the expert tailoring and technical skills honed at London’s most prestigious fashion school. But what I really mean is, it was tits-mental and I loved it.
CSM’s AW13 reminded us yet again why London is one of the style innovators of the world with such a diverse collection that included the best of minimalism, maximalism, monochrome, Quality Street colours and everything in between.
Elena Crehan, having a Sibling/Meadham x Rocky Horror menswear moment. Really good legs, too. Bastards.
The collection that spoke most to my cold dead heart was from Hampus Berggren, who on top of having an amazing name, also brought my favourite thing in the world, ALL BLACK EVERYTHING. I love menswear, in general I find it so much more interesting to see menswear done really well than womenswear, I just feel there is so much further menswear can go, and whereas womenswear trends will get adopted en masse however ridiculous (heel-less shoes, anyone?), whenever I see anyone on the street wearing this kind of silhouette, it literally makes my heart LEAP. And also, anyone who can do sheer without it smacking of over-the-hill rent boy always deserves a special mention.
Patrick Bateman wipe-clean chic from Hwan Sun Park. So fresh and so clean, clean.
Following on from pre-fall’s obsession with pleats and ruffles, Jaimee McKenna‘s collection was crisp and neat in such a pleasing range of blues, including colour of the moment, cobalt.
Apart from bringing the medical support sock back onto the runway, Jessica Fawcett‘s mix of textures and materials was definitely noteworthy. Again with the pleats, the lightness of this look despite the domineering silhouette is pretty damn dreamy. Also, I’m always a fan of a ~sexy~ mesh insert.
Monochrome monk is another of my favourite kinds of look, and one I shall be replicating often in my dotage. Maggie Rydland‘s minimal collection
One of my absolute favourites, Sadie Williams is such a perfect example of how to do mixed textures without compromising a simple silhouette. I absolutely love the clean lines and shape to her dresses, and the mix of strategically placed leather on such shiny, brightly coloured fabric, on paper sounds like some kind of New Look nightmare, but William’s whole collection was luxe without being excessive.
Hello…is it one of those weird surgical balloons they use to rebuild people’s faces you’re looking for? Well if that’s your thing get your wallet out because yet again Toma Stenko gave us warped, unnatural silhouettes in browns and blues. The whole collection actually reminds me of when you mix acrylic paint and it dries in lumpy swirls of colour. One thing I love about the CSM MA show, which Stenko is such a good example of, is it beings so good to see someone doing exactly what they want to do rather than variations on a commercial theme.
The winner of this year’s L’Oreal Bursary Award was Eilish Macintosh. From minimal monochrome column dresses with white rope harnesses to beige and black PVC/leather attached by what looked like phone cord, so interesting from a technical perspective as well as a purely visual one.
Even if I didn’t like metallics, I’d do this post just as an excuse to post this bad boy:
80s djs in shell suits. Ageing prostitutes in PVC. Drag queens in gold lamé. Tins of Quality Street. All important and exciting fashion reference points reflected in SS13’s mens collections. From a subtle sheen on classic suits at Hardy Amies to a full on wipe-clean visual assault in fuschias, greens and purples on trenches and shirts at Burberry, men’s metallics is a highly versatile, wearble trend, the perfect antidote to the dreary weather and a great style update for classic suits and shirts.