I had a week off work, and somehow this turned into a week off from life in general, hence no posts. Anyway, the important issue here is Rad Hourani’s new unisex collection. I’m a big fan of Hourani in general, you know me, I’ve yet to meet a black androgynous look I didn’t like, but this new collection is a little bit special. The new collection, Unisex Couture, is only his ninth since launching in 2007, and features everything that is good in the world – a no-colour colour palette of black, white and grey, origami cuts and structured layering. Mmm, child. There’s a brilliant line on his website – “NO GENDER, NO SEASON, NO RULES”, which is also my attitude to my sex life. Bdum, tish.
“I STARTED IMAGINING CLOTHES THE SAME WAY I STARTED CREATING IMAGES: WITH A SENSE OF CURIOSITY AND INNOCENCE DRIVEN BY MY NO-BACKGROUND BACKGROUND. NO SCHOOL. NO TEACHERS. NO TELLY. NO BOUNDARIES. NO FORMATTING. I LIKE THE IDEA OF A WORLD THAT WE COULD LIVE AND SHAPE BY OURSELVES, ONLY BY OBSERVING. EACH OUR OWN. MY CLOTHES HAVE ERUPTED FROM THIS WORLD OF MINE. THEY ARE ASEXUAL, ASEASONAL, THEY COME FROM NO PLACE, NO TIME, NO TRADITION, YET THEY COULD BE HOME ANYWHERE, ANYTIME. THEY EXUDE A SENSE OF DISCREET CHIC, THE ESSENCE OF TIMELESS STYLE, DRAWN ON A MONOCHROMATIC AND GRAPHICAL CANVAS. PALETTE OF BLACKS AND SHADES OF TIMELESS COLORS. SOPHISTICATED UNISEX MODERN CLASSICS FOR ANTI-CONFORMIST INDIVIDUALS.” – RAD HOURANI
Milan Fashion Week brought all of the expected opulence and excess it is famed for, interspersed with a heavy dose of Great Gatsby/Grey Gardens inspiration (which makes sense, as Prada are doing the costumes for the upcoming remake of the Great Gatsby) and tartan. In amongst this were the enduring themes of New York and London – leather, bomber jackets and masculine tailoring.
The stand out collection for me was Fausto Puglisi, who served up the kind of collection Ricardo Tisci might if he had an unlimited gift card for the John Lewis haberdashery. That might sound like a criticism, but I bloody love the John Lewis haberdashery. Despite a grammatically appalling website, definitely have a look if you’re not familiar with the brand, as this is only his second collection, so I’m imagining some really great things to come.
Here’s a selection of the best looks from MFW.
London is the fashion week I look forward to the most. Generally offering the most diversity, originality and an over-arching sense of fun without being trashy, London’s rich fashion history has solidified our place as one of the leading fashion cities of the world. This season however, was a colossal let down. Individually, there were some really nice looks (hayyyy Louise Gray, Peter Pilotto) but overall, everything just felt flat, mature and, worst of all, sensible. Tones were muted and hemlines were long, there were variations on themes that have been exhausted seasons before. Has London finally run out of ideas or has the eternally young London girl finally grown up for good? Here’s the best of a bad season: