The mens shows got off to a good start, with a really strong season from the new major players of London fashion – standouts included variations on a theme, androgynous menswear and experimental cuts from JW Anderson, pleasing prints from LCM babies Agi & Sam and heavy sports influences from Christopher Shannon. Paris really stuck with the enduring prints theme, Frankie Morello went for burger and sushi prints, Moschino showed lightning bolts amidst jewel-toned stripes and nerdy jacket and cardigan combinations, Paris brought the expected level of cool minimalism, Marni and Tillman Lauterbach were particular favourites.
Milan was…Milan…Dsquared2 was the usual display of maximum homoeroticism and minimal actual clothing, Etro took Mexican inspiration to rather a literal level, sending a heavily moustasched model down the catwalk in a whacking great sombrero. Probs not one we’re going to see on many street style blogs, but always a good go-to for fancy dress parties.
Overall, SS14 is looking good for menswear, lots of minimalism, androgyny, ~WaCkY pRiNtS~, with some added louche looks from Haider Ackermann’s quilted smoking jackets in a luxe pallette of wines and navys to Dries Van Noten’s muted tonal florals.
Surprising highlight collections for me were Iceberg and Opening Ceremony, both really clean and sharp, centered in the focus colours for next season – navys, blacks and creams/whites. I wasn’t sold on Givenchy’s prints this season, though for me the religious iconography was a real winner so it would’ve been hard to top anyway. I was surprised to like Louis Vuitton, usually not a collection I pay much notice to, but I really liked the Talented Mr Ripley vibes.
Obvs, there were some absolute car crashes. No surprises for guessing who I’m coming for here. Hedi Slimane continues his one-man destruction of Yves Saint Laurent, sorry, Soft Grunge Laurent, sorry, Saint Laurent Paris, every season managing to churn out more and more overly commercial, cheap sartorial high fives to dated pop culture references. This season the vibe is ‘Glam Rock by George at Asda’. (oh and obviously the standard set of models who wouldn’t look out of place in an in-patient facility. Good work, you absolute tit)
Moving on from blood-pressure raising train wrecks, here’s a look at recurrent themes for SS14.
ANDROGYNOUS / LADY PARTS
BLUE IS THE COLOUR
ALL WHITE EVERYTHING
“FLORALS FOR SPRING? GROUNDBREAKING”
KHAKIS/ NUDES/BEIGE/WHALE TUSK/OLD BISCUIT
London is the fashion week I look forward to the most. Generally offering the most diversity, originality and an over-arching sense of fun without being trashy, London’s rich fashion history has solidified our place as one of the leading fashion cities of the world. This season however, was a colossal let down. Individually, there were some really nice looks (hayyyy Louise Gray, Peter Pilotto) but overall, everything just felt flat, mature and, worst of all, sensible. Tones were muted and hemlines were long, there were variations on themes that have been exhausted seasons before. Has London finally run out of ideas or has the eternally young London girl finally grown up for good? Here’s the best of a bad season:
Anya Ziourova is one of them fashiony people with a finger in many (low carb) fashion pies. Starting off at American Vogue, AZ then moved onto Japanese and Chinese Vogue, where she was Fashion Assistant, then Stylist, from whence she moved on to become a regular contributor and eventual Fashion Director of Russian Tatler, where she also began as Creative Fashion Consultant at Russian Allure. She’s also contributed to eight flavours of Vogue, worked with major babes like Mia Wasikowska, Monica Bellucci and Lou Doillon and consulted for brands including Ben Sherman (and weirdly, John Lewis). And…breathe.
Regardless of her many actual talents, Anya is always guaranteed to be one of the most photographed over Fashion Month. I love the androgyny of her style, from leather dungarees to pyjama suits, there’s a boyish playfulness to her outfit choices, even a skirt is usually paired with an amorphous or masculine tailored top of jacket. When I finally decide to stop dressing like a school boy, rather than the 22 year old girl I actually am, I’m hoping I can come somewhere close to this. Let’s hope I’m earning quite a bit more by then…
For years prints had been firmly a feminine fashion feature, with particular prevalence on the catwalk over the last few seasons, with men’s prints only getting as exciting as “wacky” office ties, your grandad’s pyjamas, and the Casette Playa-esque/probable sex offender Timmy Mallet.
But for SS13, there must have been something in the air as a slew of collections led to men’s prints taking on a life of their own Paris, London, Milan and New York fashion weeks. From sharp geometric shapes at Fendi, to soft florals at Christopher Kane and even..er…whales at Thom Browne.
The second part of my favourite shows from London Collections: Men.
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