Tagged: dior homme

SS14 / MENSWEAR / ROUND-UP

The mens shows got off to a good start, with a really strong season from the new major players of London fashion – standouts included variations on a theme, androgynous menswear and experimental cuts from JW Anderson, pleasing prints from LCM babies Agi & Sam and heavy sports influences from Christopher Shannon. Paris really stuck with the enduring prints theme, Frankie Morello went for burger and sushi prints, Moschino showed lightning bolts amidst jewel-toned stripes and nerdy jacket and cardigan combinations, Paris brought the expected level of cool minimalism, Marni and Tillman Lauterbach were particular favourites.

Milan was…Milan…Dsquared2 was the usual display of maximum homoeroticism and minimal actual clothing, Etro took Mexican inspiration to rather a literal level, sending a heavily moustasched model down the catwalk in a whacking great sombrero. Probs not one we’re going to see on many street style blogs, but always a good go-to for fancy dress parties.

Overall, SS14 is looking good for menswear,  lots of minimalism, androgyny, ~WaCkY pRiNtS~, with some added louche looks from Haider Ackermann’s quilted smoking jackets in a luxe pallette of wines and navys to Dries Van Noten’s muted tonal florals.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann

Surprising highlight collections for me were Iceberg and Opening Ceremony, both really clean and sharp, centered in the focus colours for next season – navys, blacks and creams/whites.  I wasn’t sold on Givenchy’s prints this season, though for me the religious iconography was a real winner so it would’ve been hard to top anyway.  I was surprised to like Louis Vuitton, usually not a collection I pay much notice to, but I really liked the Talented Mr Ripley vibes.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Iceberg

Iceberg

Opening Cermony

Opening Cermony

Obvs, there were some absolute car crashes. No surprises for guessing who I’m coming for here. Hedi Slimane continues his one-man destruction of Yves Saint Laurent, sorry, Soft Grunge Laurent, sorry, Saint Laurent Paris, every season managing to churn out more and more overly commercial, cheap sartorial high fives to dated pop culture references. This season the vibe is ‘Glam Rock by George at Asda’. (oh and obviously the standard set of models who wouldn’t look out of place in an in-patient facility. Good work, you absolute tit)

ysl3 ysl1 ysl2

Moving on from blood-pressure raising train wrecks, here’s a look at recurrent themes for SS14.

BLOCK COLOUR

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Shaun Samson

Shaun Samson

Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Kenzo

Kenzo

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Iceberg

Iceberg

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

E Tautz

E Tautz

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Agi & Sam

Agi & Sam

E Tautz

E Tautz

E Tautz

E Tautz

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

TUMBLR

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Bobby Abley

Bobby Abley

givenchy1 givenchy2 e tautz3

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

MONOCHROME

Shaun Samson

Shaun Samson

Pringle

Pringle

Pringle

Pringle

Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony

marni2

Marni

Lou Dalton

Lou Dalton

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Lee Roach

Lee Roach

Lanvin

Lanvin

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

Kenzo

Kenzo

Kenzo

Kenzo

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

christopher shannon2

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Andrea Pompilio

Andrea Pompilio

Adrea Pompilio

Adrea Pompilio

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

ANDROGYNOUS /  LADY PARTS

Lou Dalton

Lou Dalton

jw anderson1

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

astrid anderson2

Astrid Anderson

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

alexander mcqueen3

Alexander McQueen

BLUE IS THE COLOUR

Agi & Sam

Agi & Sam

3.1 Philip Lim

3.1 Philip Lim

Agi & Sam

Agi & Sam

arni1

Marni

Burberry

Burberry

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

christopher shannon3

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

damir doma4

Damir Doma

jonathan saunders3

Jonathan Saunders

James Long

James Long

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Kenzo

Kenzo

lanvin2

Lanvin

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

MAN craig green3

Craig Green

Miharayasuhiro

Miharayasuhiro

Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony

Richard Nicoll_man_ss14

Richard Nicoll

sibling2

Sibling

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

ALL WHITE EVERYTHING

Opening Cermony

Opening Cermony

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Marni

Marni

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

Kenzo

Kenzo

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Iceberg

Iceberg

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Astrid Andersen

Astrid Andersen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

“FLORALS FOR SPRING? GROUNDBREAKING”

Topman Design

Topman Design

jil sander4

Jil Sander

miharayasuhiro2

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

LEATHER

Shaun Samson

Shaun Samson

rick owens2

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

Comme Des Garcons

Comme Des Garcons

Andrea Pompilio

Andrea Pompilio

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

KHAKIS/ NUDES/BEIGE/WHALE TUSK/OLD BISCUIT

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Astrid Andersen

Astrid Andersen

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Iceberg

Iceberg

Iceberg

Iceberg

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

lee roach3

Lee Roach

Bobby Abley

Bobby Abley

Topman Design

Topman Design

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WHAT I WORE TODAY VOL.III

ImageAfter this morning’s kerfuffle with & Other Stories over their photo of a wantonly thin model, I thought I’d dig out this AW07 Dior Homme look. The drapery really flatters my pin thin silhouette, and is also perfect for wafting around the office leaving only a faint smell of vomit in my wake.

 

SAINT LAURENT PARIS AW13 – I’M NOT ANGRY, JUST DISAPPOINTED

Last week, Hedi Slimane showed his first menswear collection as creative director of YSL Saint Laurent Paris.

During his time as creative director of Dior Homme (2000-2007), Slimane quickly carved out his aesthetic as the antithesis of Dolce and Gabbana, Versace, JPG et al’s chiseled male models, instead showing his collection on thin, pale and boyish models, often street casted by Slimane himself. Hedi popularised skinny jeans and consequently, even skinnier bodies. Feting London’s indie rock scene, Hedi faced criticism for his obsession with eternal fuck-up Pete Doherty (obviously this was before Pete started cutting his coke with pork pies) featuring him in many a moody black and white photo for his Rock Diary and kitting him out in skinny tailoring for years. This new aesthetic was quickly picked up throughout the fashion industry, with Karl Lagerfeld even famously declaring Slimane’s skinny tailoring as the motivation behind his massive weight loss in 2001.Image

As a 11-16 year old, the Hedi Dior Homme collections really struck a chord with me, and were definitely the start of my obsession with fashion and particularly menswear. I was skinny, with a chest as flat as Hedi’s models and a penchant for Topman. I loved the androgyny, the easy London cool mapped out in never-ending black and white, all set to catwalk soundtracks by my favourite bands of the time. The same boys at school who would shout ‘GAY!’ at any boy wearing pink were now spending their mother’s money on jeans that could have been their sisters’.Fast forward to 2012, five years on from the fashion forward, critically lauded collections showed under Dior Homme, to the first men’s collection as Saint Laurent Paris. And it was awful.

Whereas his collections at Dior Homme captured the spirit of a moment, what we are offered for AW13 is an irrelevant rehash of grunge-by-numbers, with Julia Nobis (a model whose weight, or lack thereof, is dribbled over by pro-ana fan girls across the world) in a predictable Kurt Cobain inspired outfit that wouldn’t look out of place on a Topman sale rail. Gutted.

Image

She was followed by other mini Kurts, in leopard print cardigans and plaid shirts, amongst ripped jeans and duffle coats.

ImageImage

The only memorable thing about the collection, sadly, was the use of a model who, even if his thinness is natural, has absolutely no place in a fashion show.

Image

This bizarre, disappointing and wildly irresponsible casting (I’ve yet to find a name and agency for him, but I’m sure his comp card is a total lie already) is all the more confusing given Slimane’s strained relationship with the press surrounding his re-branding of Saint Laurent Paris. This model’s inclusion sparked immediate disgust on Twitter, with fashion industry insiders and fans in general left baffled at Slimane’s obvious face-palm.

Models being too thin is a subject that has been talked about over and over again and will continue to be talked about over and over again, but what had previously only been a major concern in womenswear, With Andrej Pejic talking about his struggle to keep his weight low enough to model womenswear, the implications of using a model whose body shape, being so extreme, totally eclipses the outfit he is wearing. With the cross-over between womens and menswear and the use of women in menswear shows and vice versa more popular than ever, are boys falling prey to the same body fascism that has been part and parcel of being a female model for decades?

Casting agents obviously work with this preference for androgyny, rather than masculinity, in mind, James Scully, a seasoned casting agent with a solid rep built at Tom Ford era Gucci said of casting, “Everyone looks to Miuccia Prada for the standard the way they used to look at Hedi Slimane. Once the Hedi Slimanization got started, all anyone wanted to cast was the scrawny kid who looked like he got sand kicked in his face. The big, great looking models just stopped going to Europe. They knew they’d never get cast.”

With constant efforts to regulate how thin is too thin with regards to female models, perhaps more attention needs to be paid to their male counterparts, particularly if designers like Slimane are going to cast such shockingly thin models. 25% of reported eating disorder sufferers, something which increases year upon year, and although I’m not suggesting that eating disorders are ~caused~ by fashion models, it would definitely be a good idea for people to know that YOU MAY BE THIN ENOUGH TO BE A MODEL, BUT YOU’RE ALSO THIN ENOUGH TO BE DEAD.

It’s disappointing really, particularly when you think that Slimane is showing such a irrelevant, dull collection with a spattering of mental health related controversy under the name of Yves Saint Laurent, a man who not only struggled himself with drug addiction and mental health problems but also as a man regarded as one of the finest designers in history. Hopefully Hedi’s gotten his ‘Thin Boy in a High Street Shop’ out of his system and SS14  will be something worth paying attention to outside of pro-ana Livejournals and ~soft grunge~ tumblrs.