Here’s a rundown of this season’s 10 most booked catwalkers for AW13. Unsurprisingly, they’re all white, and it would seem that ‘blank canvas’ was very much the casting trend. A good turn for British models, with one girl in the top five (hay Sam), and also an amazing season for two of my favourite girls, Tilda Lindstam and Kel Markey. Tilda seems to be getting a fair bit of flak for taking the top spot, accusations of “basicness” are being thrown around (which seems ridiculous as compared to some of the others in the top 10 she’s basically Giselle), but in terms of fitting in with the theme this season she’s ‘plain’ enough to be versatile in any look, but she’s not a total no-mark, there’s definitely something special about her. She’s not classically beautiful, but she’s also not scary-quirky and there is definitely a place in fashion for “pretty” rather than DROP DEAD STUNNING girls. Look at the difference between Kate Moss compared to Naomi Campbell, for example, you can’t say they’re not both iconic looking, but for totally different reasons. It’ll be interesting to see how many campaigns the top 10 get, I’m really hoping Julia Nobis gets a few, I love an androgynous model and the fact that she’s not androgynous in an overtly sexual way (e.g Andrej Pejic, Erika Linder et al) could be really interesting for campaigns. Anyway, here’s the top 10 bitches cashing cheques this season.
10. Juliana Schurig, American, (DNA, Premier, Elite Milan & Paris) – 60 shows total, opened 2, closed 0
9. Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Danish, (Marilyn, Storm, Elite Milan & Paris) – 60, O4, C2
8. Julia Frauche, French, (Next WW) – 62, O1, C
7. Julia Nobis , Australian, (DNA, Premer, Elite Milan & Paris) – 62, O3, C7
Ahhh bonjour ma petite tasse! Regardez-vous ma blog post de Paris Fashion Week! As you can tell, I’m basically fluent in French, it’s one of my many talents. For those not as clever as me at French, here’s a round-up of the sartorial offerings from Paris Fashion Week.
STOP. BALMAIN TIME! An 80s wipe-clean wonderland, Balmain was every theatrical tin-foil fashion hope and more, we have Balmain in at my work all the time, can’t wait to try and shoe-horn myself into the amazing waistcoat outfit on the right, rip it, and be evicted because I can’t pay for it. ASPIRATIONAL!
Alexander Wang’s much anticipated first collection since his controversial appointment at Balenciaga. And it wasn’t horrible. It’s still very much Wang-esque (not a word I’ll use again, promise) but with undeniable Christobal influence. I liked it, it’s a nice return to the classic, clean Balenciaga, rather than the ultra modernism Ghesquiere brought with his metal leggings/Egyptofunk/riding hats etc, which I loved, but I don’t think Wang could have followed on from or replicated in the same vein without it looking like some kind of shit Project Runway ~modernism~ challenge.
I know leather panelling has been done over and over and over, but I want this, all of this, and variations of this, forever.
Really enjoying the Brave New World/Handmaid’s Tale minimal ~dystopian sexuality~ here, and how could I not love the wimple. I’m all about a wimple. I’m not ususally a huge fan of Mugler, but the simplicity, and the murky blue with crisp white, speaks to my inner future gimp.
Each season Givenchy is usually my go-to, but the disparity between the menswear (99% of the time, amazing) and the womenswear (67% of the time, amazing) starts to show more and more. I love the floral leather biker and the quilted bomber, super, but the random sequinned arm? The cheap ill-fitting mesh? The shiny polka-dots? This both confuses and upsets me.
These are my dream outfits until I’m thin enough to slip under my office door, rather than walking through it. Probably not very practical day to day (getting closed in bus doors, dropping Tesco Value lasagne down yourself, cycling – all trials I face daily) but commanding and beautiful all the same. I do miss the structured, body-con Pugh of olde, but a shift in silhouette hasn’t lost the dark drama he’s built his brand on.
I’m not ususally a fan of Valentino, not nearly enough black, leather or androgyny for me, but this china plate-esque collection has reminded me that I AM A GIRL, HERE ME SQUEAL!
Do you feel dizzy? Disorientated? It might be to do with Yves Saint Laurent spinning so hard in his grave that the Earth is turning faster than usual. #SOFTGRUNGELAURENT HAS STRUCK AGAIN. Hedi’s latest collection (and we know how much I enjoyed his last menswear offering) has been met with a resounding NON from critics, and rightly so. His access to the Topshop throw-out must be STOPPED.
This season marks Claire Wright Keller’s fourth at the helm of Chloe, and it’s definitely her best yet. Probably my favourite collection from Paris, simple and minimal with great tailoring and a perfect colour palette.
Who invented the tartan laundry bag? Has anyone got his email? He’s definitely been ripped off at Celine. Blatant plagiarism aside, Celine was it’s usual super self, a really nice palette and pleasing oversized yet tailored shapes (so excited to put on 15 stone before winter and be able to shop at Celine rather than Millets!).
Milan Fashion Week brought all of the expected opulence and excess it is famed for, interspersed with a heavy dose of Great Gatsby/Grey Gardens inspiration (which makes sense, as Prada are doing the costumes for the upcoming remake of the Great Gatsby) and tartan. In amongst this were the enduring themes of New York and London – leather, bomber jackets and masculine tailoring.
The stand out collection for me was Fausto Puglisi, who served up the kind of collection Ricardo Tisci might if he had an unlimited gift card for the John Lewis haberdashery. That might sound like a criticism, but I bloody love the John Lewis haberdashery. Despite a grammatically appalling website, definitely have a look if you’re not familiar with the brand, as this is only his second collection, so I’m imagining some really great things to come.
Here’s a selection of the best looks from MFW.
With London Fashion Week starting today, let’s take a look back at the best that New York had to offer. By the looks of things, we’re all in for a right old miserable time this winter.
With the first look at AW13, New York brought contrasting textures and materials, sharp lines, geometric shapes, quilting, panelling and an abundance of leather for both menswear and womenswear. And if you’re in the market for a bomber jacket next season, you’re spoilt for choice.
Womenswear tailoring was oversized and masculine, breaking up a palette of black and greys, with flashes of cobalt blue and bright purples. Make up was natural and understated with hair worn down and centre parted. For the boys, the look was slick side partings and short fringes. The message wasn’t so much ‘girls will be boys’, but rather, girls will be MEN. Masculine shapes for upper wear teamed with sharp leather skirts and thigh-high boots put the girls firmly in defense mode, with the boys swathed in impenetrable bomber jackets, kilts, shorts and leggings and lace-up boots. If New York is anything to go by, next season your clothes will also be your armour.