Category: ss13 trend report

SS13 TREND REPORT/ WOMENS/ RUFFLE SHUFFLE

SS13’s ruffles and pleats ranged from delicate and understated in London at James Long and JW Anderson to the theatrical and in-your-face in Paris at Chanel and Balenciaga. I’ve always been quite wary of ruffles, I think I’d look more My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding than Givenchy, but the simplicity and minimalism of the pieces at JW Anderson particularly have made me think that ruffles and pleats could be worth revisiting, and could be a great way to try and at least vaguely summer-ise my wardrobe.

Vita Gottlieb

Vita Gottlieb

balenc 4

Balenciaga

Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

James Long

James Long

Givenchy

Givenchy

Chanel

Chanel

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SS13 TREND REPORT / WOMENS / MISTER SISTER

Masculine tailoring, a boxy silhouette and BIG OL’ SHOULDERS. A recurring trend that has evolved through 1930s Schiaparelli, drink throwing and handbag hurling in Dynasty, 80s Head Bitch In Charge power dressing and Michael Jackson wearing 2011 Balmain til it was threadbare, strong shoulders and a boxy silhouette made a lasting impression in the SS13 shows.

An emphasis on the shoulders has, through the years, become a symbol of establishing authority, projecting a hard, no-nonsense image for women through times that have been both socially and economically tough on women. Giving a strong, commanding silhouette, masculine and memorable, this trend is the absolute antithesis to Versace/Dolce and Gabbana et al’s hypersexualised sex-worker bodycon nightmare.

Ann Sofie Back Atelier

Ann Sofie Back Atelier

Balmain

Balmain

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Lanvin

Lanvin

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Rodarte

Rodarte

Sharon Wauchob

Sharon Wauchob

SS13 TREND REPORT / WOMENS / THE CLASH

Patterns spread like wildfire across both the mens and womens SS13 collections, but womenswear was all about the clash. When I was a young man, clashing prints were the proviso of ~wacky~ art teachers whose questionable sartorial choices could be blamed on inhaling too many “paint fumes”. Fast forward to SS13 and florals, plaids, geometric prints, marbling and every other combination imaginable is one of the most prevalent womenswear trends. A great way to break up an outfit, accentuate textures and layers, this is also a great trend for those of us whose attitude to getting dressed in the morning is a ‘throw everything on the floor onto my body’ approach…

3.1 Philip Lim

3.1 Philip Lim

Altuzarra

Altuzarra

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Clements Ribiero

Clements Ribiero

Dolce and Gabbana

Dolce and Gabbana

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Hermes

Hermes

Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant

Kenzo

Kenzo

Louise Gray

Louise Gray

Marten Van Der Horst

Marten Van Der Horst

Mary Katranzou

Mary Katranzou

Otswald Helgason

Otswald Helgason

Peter Pilotto

Peter Pilotto

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

Thakoon

Thakoon

Versus

Versus

Vita Gottlieb

Vita Gottlieb

SS13 TREND REPORTS / MENS / SHINY HAPPY PEOPLE

Even if I didn’t like metallics, I’d do this post just as an excuse to post this bad boy:

80s djs in shell suits. Ageing prostitutes in PVC. Drag queens in gold lamé. Tins of Quality Street. All important and exciting fashion reference points reflected in SS13’s mens collections. From a subtle sheen on classic suits at Hardy Amies to a full on wipe-clean visual assault in fuschias, greens and purples on trenches and shirts at Burberry, men’s metallics is a highly versatile, wearble trend, the perfect antidote to the dreary weather and a great style update for classic suits and shirts.

Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Burberry

Burberry

Fendi

Fendi

Hardy Amies

Hardy Amies

Lanvin

Lanvin

Mugler

Mugler

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Versace

Versace

SS13 TREND REPORT / WOMENS / SHEERLY NOT

I love a bad good wordplay almost as much as I love a bit of sheer panneling. Sheer used to remind me of those awful nylon babydoll things you see on market stalls up and down the country, worn by middle aged women who flash the milkman. Here’s an example of what I found when I searched ‘sheer’ in tumblr (tastefully edited to spare your blushes).

NSFW

sheer

But thankfully, sheer doesn’t have to equal trashy. An incredibly wearable, versatile trend, there are lots of good sheer pieces available on the high street, more of which in another post. SS13 showed us the versatility of the sheer trend through subtly sexy panelling at Helmut Lang, sporty at Preen, romantic at Jason Wu and boyish grunge at Prabal Gurung.

Balmain

Balmain

BCBG

BCBG

Emilio Pucci

Emilio Pucci

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

Jason Wu

Jason Wu

jscott

Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott

Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab

Ports 1961

Ports 1961

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung

Preen

Preen

Sharon Wauchob

Sharon Wauchob

Thakoon

Thakoon

SS13 TREND REPORT / MENS / PRINTS CHARMING

For years prints had been firmly a feminine fashion feature, with particular prevalence on the catwalk over the last few seasons, with men’s prints only getting as exciting as “wacky” office ties, your grandad’s pyjamas, and the Casette Playa-esque/probable sex offender Timmy Mallet.

timmy1

But for SS13, there must have been something in the air as a slew of collections led to men’s prints taking on a life of their own Paris, London, Milan and New York fashion weeks. From sharp geometric shapes at Fendi, to soft florals at Christopher Kane and even..er…whales at Thom Browne.

burb2

Burberry

fendi1

Fendi

marc jacobs2

Marc Jacobs

gucci

Gucci

topman1

Topman

shannon1

Christopher Shannon

versace mens1

Versace

thom browne

Thom Browne

jpg

Jean Paul Gaultier

jw anderson4

JW Anderson

lanvin4

Lanvin

mmg1

Maison Martin Margiela

ports2

Ports

yohji

Yohji Yamamoto

ann d mens

Ann Demeulemeester

balenm1

Balenciaga

christopher kane3

Christopher Kane