Category: round-up

SS14 / MENSWEAR / ROUND-UP

The mens shows got off to a good start, with a really strong season from the new major players of London fashion – standouts included variations on a theme, androgynous menswear and experimental cuts from JW Anderson, pleasing prints from LCM babies Agi & Sam and heavy sports influences from Christopher Shannon. Paris really stuck with the enduring prints theme, Frankie Morello went for burger and sushi prints, Moschino showed lightning bolts amidst jewel-toned stripes and nerdy jacket and cardigan combinations, Paris brought the expected level of cool minimalism, Marni and Tillman Lauterbach were particular favourites.

Milan was…Milan…Dsquared2 was the usual display of maximum homoeroticism and minimal actual clothing, Etro took Mexican inspiration to rather a literal level, sending a heavily moustasched model down the catwalk in a whacking great sombrero. Probs not one we’re going to see on many street style blogs, but always a good go-to for fancy dress parties.

Overall, SS14 is looking good for menswear,  lots of minimalism, androgyny, ~WaCkY pRiNtS~, with some added louche looks from Haider Ackermann’s quilted smoking jackets in a luxe pallette of wines and navys to Dries Van Noten’s muted tonal florals.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann

Surprising highlight collections for me were Iceberg and Opening Ceremony, both really clean and sharp, centered in the focus colours for next season – navys, blacks and creams/whites.  I wasn’t sold on Givenchy’s prints this season, though for me the religious iconography was a real winner so it would’ve been hard to top anyway.  I was surprised to like Louis Vuitton, usually not a collection I pay much notice to, but I really liked the Talented Mr Ripley vibes.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Iceberg

Iceberg

Opening Cermony

Opening Cermony

Obvs, there were some absolute car crashes. No surprises for guessing who I’m coming for here. Hedi Slimane continues his one-man destruction of Yves Saint Laurent, sorry, Soft Grunge Laurent, sorry, Saint Laurent Paris, every season managing to churn out more and more overly commercial, cheap sartorial high fives to dated pop culture references. This season the vibe is ‘Glam Rock by George at Asda’. (oh and obviously the standard set of models who wouldn’t look out of place in an in-patient facility. Good work, you absolute tit)

ysl3 ysl1 ysl2

Moving on from blood-pressure raising train wrecks, here’s a look at recurrent themes for SS14.

BLOCK COLOUR

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Shaun Samson

Shaun Samson

Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Kenzo

Kenzo

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Iceberg

Iceberg

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

E Tautz

E Tautz

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Agi & Sam

Agi & Sam

E Tautz

E Tautz

E Tautz

E Tautz

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

Burberry

TUMBLR

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Raf Simons

Raf Simons

Bobby Abley

Bobby Abley

givenchy1 givenchy2 e tautz3

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

MONOCHROME

Shaun Samson

Shaun Samson

Pringle

Pringle

Pringle

Pringle

Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony

marni2

Marni

Lou Dalton

Lou Dalton

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Lee Roach

Lee Roach

Lanvin

Lanvin

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

Kenzo

Kenzo

Kenzo

Kenzo

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

christopher shannon2

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Andrea Pompilio

Andrea Pompilio

Adrea Pompilio

Adrea Pompilio

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

ANDROGYNOUS /  LADY PARTS

Lou Dalton

Lou Dalton

jw anderson1

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Damir Doma

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

astrid anderson2

Astrid Anderson

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

alexander mcqueen3

Alexander McQueen

BLUE IS THE COLOUR

Agi & Sam

Agi & Sam

3.1 Philip Lim

3.1 Philip Lim

Agi & Sam

Agi & Sam

arni1

Marni

Burberry

Burberry

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

christopher shannon3

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

damir doma4

Damir Doma

jonathan saunders3

Jonathan Saunders

James Long

James Long

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Kenzo

Kenzo

lanvin2

Lanvin

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

MAN craig green3

Craig Green

Miharayasuhiro

Miharayasuhiro

Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony

Richard Nicoll_man_ss14

Richard Nicoll

sibling2

Sibling

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf

Walter van Beirendonck

Walter van Beirendonck

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

ALL WHITE EVERYTHING

Opening Cermony

Opening Cermony

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Marni

Marni

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

Kenzo

Kenzo

JW Anderson

JW Anderson

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Iceberg

Iceberg

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

Astrid Andersen

Astrid Andersen

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

“FLORALS FOR SPRING? GROUNDBREAKING”

Topman Design

Topman Design

jil sander4

Jil Sander

miharayasuhiro2

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

LEATHER

Shaun Samson

Shaun Samson

rick owens2

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Les Hommes

Kokon To Zai

Kokon To Zai

Comme Des Garcons

Comme Des Garcons

Andrea Pompilio

Andrea Pompilio

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

KHAKIS/ NUDES/BEIGE/WHALE TUSK/OLD BISCUIT

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Astrid Andersen

Astrid Andersen

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier

Iceberg

Iceberg

Iceberg

Iceberg

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

lee roach3

Lee Roach

Bobby Abley

Bobby Abley

Topman Design

Topman Design

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STREET STYLE ROUND-UP / MENS / VOL IV

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AW13 / PFW / ROUND-UP

Ahhh bonjour ma petite tasse! Regardez-vous ma blog post de Paris Fashion Week! As you can tell, I’m basically fluent in French, it’s one of my many talents. For those not as clever as me at French, here’s a round-up of the sartorial offerings from Paris Fashion Week.

STOP. BALMAIN TIME! An 80s wipe-clean wonderland, Balmain was every theatrical tin-foil fashion hope and more, we have Balmain in at my work all the time, can’t wait to try and shoe-horn myself into the amazing waistcoat outfit on the right, rip it, and be evicted because I can’t pay for it. ASPIRATIONAL!

Balmain

Balmain

Alexander Wang’s much anticipated first collection since his controversial appointment at Balenciaga. And it wasn’t horrible. It’s still very much Wang-esque (not a word I’ll use again, promise) but with undeniable Christobal influence. I liked it, it’s a nice return to the classic, clean Balenciaga, rather than the ultra modernism Ghesquiere brought with his metal leggings/Egyptofunk/riding hats etc, which I loved, but I don’t think Wang could have followed on from or replicated in the same vein without it looking like some kind of shit Project Runway ~modernism~ challenge.

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Sacai

Sacai

I know leather panelling has been done over and over and over, but I want this, all of this, and variations of this, forever.

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Really enjoying the Brave New World/Handmaid’s Tale minimal ~dystopian sexuality~ here, and how could I not love the wimple. I’m all about a wimple. I’m not ususally a huge fan of Mugler, but the simplicity, and the murky blue with crisp white, speaks to my inner future gimp.

Mugler

Mugler

Manish Arora

Manish Arora

Kenzo

Kenzo

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

Each season Givenchy is usually my go-to, but the disparity between the menswear (99% of the time, amazing) and the womenswear (67% of the time, amazing) starts to show more and more. I love the floral leather biker and the quilted bomber, super, but the random sequinned arm? The cheap ill-fitting mesh? The shiny polka-dots? This both confuses and upsets me.

Givenchy

Givenchy

These are my dream outfits until I’m thin enough to slip under my office door, rather than walking through it. Probably not very practical day to day (getting closed in bus doors, dropping Tesco Value lasagne down yourself, cycling – all trials I face daily) but commanding and beautiful all the same. I do miss the structured, body-con Pugh of olde, but a shift in silhouette hasn’t lost the dark drama he’s built his brand on.

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

Felipe Oliviera Baptista

Felipe Oliviera Baptista

Devastee

Devastee

Acne

Acne

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

I’m not ususally a fan of Valentino, not nearly enough black, leather or androgyny for me, but this china plate-esque collection has reminded me that I AM A GIRL, HERE ME SQUEAL!

Valentino

Valentino

Do you feel dizzy? Disorientated? It might be to do with Yves Saint Laurent spinning so hard in his grave that the Earth is turning faster than usual. #SOFTGRUNGELAURENT HAS STRUCK AGAIN. Hedi’s latest collection (and we know how much I enjoyed his last menswear offering) has been met with a resounding NON from critics, and rightly so.  His access to the Topshop throw-out must be STOPPED.

Saint Laurent Paris

Saint Laurent Paris

This season marks Claire Wright Keller’s fourth at the helm of Chloe, and it’s definitely her best yet. Probably my favourite collection from Paris, simple and minimal with great tailoring and a perfect colour palette.

Chloe

Chloe

Chloe

Chloe

Who invented the tartan laundry bag? Has anyone got his email? He’s definitely been ripped off at Celine. Blatant plagiarism aside, Celine was it’s usual super self, a really nice palette and pleasing oversized yet tailored shapes (so excited to put on 15 stone before winter and be able to shop at Celine rather than Millets!).

Celine

Celine

STREET STYLE ROUND UP / WOMENS / VOLII

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Legal eagle: All images from Coggles, Wayne Tippets, Stockholm Street Style, Le21eme, ELLE UK, Tommy Ton. If you are the owner of any of these images and would like them removed, please contact me.

AW13 / MFW / ROUND-UP

Milan Fashion Week brought all of the expected opulence and excess it is famed for, interspersed with a heavy dose of Great Gatsby/Grey Gardens inspiration (which makes sense, as Prada are doing the costumes for the upcoming remake of the Great Gatsby) and tartan. In amongst this were the enduring themes of New York and London – leather, bomber jackets and masculine tailoring.

The stand out collection for me was Fausto Puglisi, who served up the kind of collection Ricardo Tisci might if he had an unlimited gift card for the John Lewis haberdashery. That might sound like a criticism, but I bloody love the John Lewis haberdashery. Despite a grammatically appalling website, definitely have a look if you’re not familiar with the brand, as this is only his second collection, so I’m imagining some really great things to come.

Here’s a selection of the best looks from MFW.

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras

Dolce

Dolce

Dolce

Dolce

Dolce

Dolce

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi

Fendi

Fendi

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Gabriele Colangelo

Gabriele Colangelo

Genny

Genny

Genny

Genny

Gianfranco Ferre

Gianfranco Ferre

Iceberg

Iceberg

Iceberg

Iceberg

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Just Cavalli

Just Cavalli

Marni

Marni

Marni

Marni

MaxMara

MaxMara

MaxMara

MaxMara

Missoni

Missoni

Moschino

Moschino

Moschino

Moschino

MSGM

MSGM

MSGM

MSGM

Ports 1961

Ports 1961

Prada

Prada

Sportmax

Sportmax

Sportmax

Sportmax

Ter Et Bantine

Ter Et Bantine

Trussardi

Trussardi

versace

Versace

AW13 / LFW / ROUND-UP

London is the fashion week I look forward to the most. Generally offering the most diversity, originality and an over-arching sense of fun without being trashy, London’s rich fashion history has solidified our place as one of the leading fashion cities of the world. This season however, was a colossal let down. Individually, there were some really nice looks (hayyyy Louise Gray, Peter Pilotto) but overall, everything just felt flat, mature and, worst of all, sensible. Tones were muted and hemlines were long, there were variations on themes that have been exhausted seasons before. Has London finally run out of ideas or has the eternally young London girl finally grown up for good? Here’s the best of a bad season:

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ASHISH

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ASHISH

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ASHISH

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ASHLEY WILLIAMS (FASHION EAST)

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ASHLEY WILLIAMS (FASHION EAST)

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ASHLEY WILLIAMS (FASHION EAST)

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BURBERRY

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BURBERRY

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BURBERRY

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CHRISTOPHER KANE

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CHRISTOPHER KANE

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CHRISTOPHER KANE

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CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

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CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

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CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

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TOPSHOP UNIQUE

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TOPSHOP UNIQUE

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TOPSHOP UNIQUE

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SIMONE ROCHA

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SIMONE ROCHA

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SIMONE ROCHA

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PETER PILOTTO

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PETER PILOTTO

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PETER PILOTTO

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EIMILIO DE LA MORENA

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EMILIO DE LA MORENA

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EMILIO DE LA MORENA

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JW ANDERSON

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JW ANDERSON

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JW ANDERSON

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KOKON TO ZAI

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KOKON TO ZAI

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KOKON TO ZAI

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LOUISE GRAY

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LOUISE GRAY

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LOUISE GRAY

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MARIOS SCHWAB

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MARIOS SCHWAB

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MARIOS SCHWAB

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MARY KATRANZOU

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MARY KATRANZOU

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MARY KATRANZOU

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MICHAEL VAN DER HAM

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MICHAEL VAN DER HAM

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MICHAEL VAN DER HAM

AW13 / NYFW / ROUND-UP

With London Fashion Week starting today, let’s take a look back at the best that New York had to offer. By the looks of  things, we’re all in for a right old miserable time this winter.

With the first look at AW13, New York brought contrasting textures and materials, sharp lines, geometric shapes, quilting, panelling and an abundance of leather for both menswear and womenswear. And if you’re in the market for a bomber jacket next season, you’re spoilt for choice.

Womenswear tailoring was oversized and masculine, breaking up a palette of black and greys, with flashes of cobalt blue and bright purples. Make up was natural and understated with hair worn down and centre parted. For the boys, the look was slick side partings and short fringes. The message wasn’t so much ‘girls will be boys’, but rather, girls will be MEN. Masculine shapes for upper wear teamed with sharp leather skirts and thigh-high boots put the girls firmly in defense mode, with the boys swathed in impenetrable bomber jackets, kilts, shorts and leggings and lace-up boots. If New York is anything to go by, next season your clothes will also be your armour.

3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Phillip Lim

Creatures of the Wind

Creatures of the Wind

Creatures of the Wind

Creatures of the Wind

Creatures of the Wind

Creatures of the Wind

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

DKNY

DKNY

DKNY

DKNY

DKNY

DKNY

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

J Brand

J Brand

J Brand

J Brand

J Brand

J Brand

Lacoste

Lacoste

Lacoste

Lacoste

Lacoste

Lacoste

Louise Goldin

Louise Goldin

Louise Goldin

Louise Goldin

Louise Goldin

Louise Goldin

Rag and Bone

Rag and Bone

Rag and Bone

Rag and Bone

Rag and Bone

Rag and Bone

Rebecca Taylor

Rebecca Taylor

Rebecca Taylor

Rebecca Taylor

Rebecca Taylor

Rebecca Taylor

Sall Lapointe

Sally Lapointe

Sally Lapointe

Sally Lapointe

Sally Lapointe

Sally Lapointe

Suno

Suno

Suno

Suno

Suno

Suno

Thakoon Addition

Thakoon Addition

Thakoon Addition

Thakoon Addition

Thakoon Addition

Thakoon Addition

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham

Yigal Azrouel

Yigal Azrouel

Yigal Azrouel

Yigal Azrouel

Yigal Azrouel

Yigal Azrouel