Recently in my never-ending quest for things to spend money on, I stumbled across Cast of Vices, a right nice accessories brand that tick all my accessories boxes – big chains, leather and an appreciation for a rude slogan. (I realise these three things make me sound like a foul mouthed pervert, and this would be accurate.)
There is a substantial selection available in their eShop, but at present, there isn’t a London stockist, but if you find yourself in ~gay Paree~ you can pick yourself up a lil somethin’ somethin’ at French favourite, Colette.
The eShop also features rare art books from Dash Snow, Dan Colen and Terry Richardson amongst others, band tees, and curios like an actual helmet off of actual Vietnam and US prison tupperware.
You can get all of the above from their website.
DISCLAIMER: I wasn’t paid for this, if I was, they’d probably want their money back.
If I was writing about The Central Saint Martin’s MA AW13 shows in the style of a professional know-about-these things person, I would say it was a vibrant, engaging and theatrical display, showcasing the expert tailoring and technical skills honed at London’s most prestigious fashion school. But what I really mean is, it was tits-mental and I loved it.
CSM’s AW13 reminded us yet again why London is one of the style innovators of the world with such a diverse collection that included the best of minimalism, maximalism, monochrome, Quality Street colours and everything in between.
Elena Crehan, having a Sibling/Meadham x Rocky Horror menswear moment. Really good legs, too. Bastards.
The collection that spoke most to my cold dead heart was from Hampus Berggren, who on top of having an amazing name, also brought my favourite thing in the world, ALL BLACK EVERYTHING. I love menswear, in general I find it so much more interesting to see menswear done really well than womenswear, I just feel there is so much further menswear can go, and whereas womenswear trends will get adopted en masse however ridiculous (heel-less shoes, anyone?), whenever I see anyone on the street wearing this kind of silhouette, it literally makes my heart LEAP. And also, anyone who can do sheer without it smacking of over-the-hill rent boy always deserves a special mention.
Patrick Bateman wipe-clean chic from Hwan Sun Park. So fresh and so clean, clean.
Following on from pre-fall’s obsession with pleats and ruffles, Jaimee McKenna‘s collection was crisp and neat in such a pleasing range of blues, including colour of the moment, cobalt.
Apart from bringing the medical support sock back onto the runway, Jessica Fawcett‘s mix of textures and materials was definitely noteworthy. Again with the pleats, the lightness of this look despite the domineering silhouette is pretty damn dreamy. Also, I’m always a fan of a ~sexy~ mesh insert.
Monochrome monk is another of my favourite kinds of look, and one I shall be replicating often in my dotage. Maggie Rydland‘s minimal collection
One of my absolute favourites, Sadie Williams is such a perfect example of how to do mixed textures without compromising a simple silhouette. I absolutely love the clean lines and shape to her dresses, and the mix of strategically placed leather on such shiny, brightly coloured fabric, on paper sounds like some kind of New Look nightmare, but William’s whole collection was luxe without being excessive.
Hello…is it one of those weird surgical balloons they use to rebuild people’s faces you’re looking for? Well if that’s your thing get your wallet out because yet again Toma Stenko gave us warped, unnatural silhouettes in browns and blues. The whole collection actually reminds me of when you mix acrylic paint and it dries in lumpy swirls of colour. One thing I love about the CSM MA show, which Stenko is such a good example of, is it beings so good to see someone doing exactly what they want to do rather than variations on a commercial theme.
The winner of this year’s L’Oreal Bursary Award was Eilish Macintosh. From minimal monochrome column dresses with white rope harnesses to beige and black PVC/leather attached by what looked like phone cord, so interesting from a technical perspective as well as a purely visual one.
Or, ‘what I wish I could wear to work’
Walter Van Beirendonck (SS12)
WVB is a 55 year old Belgian, firmly out of his tree. Designing under his own name since 1983, his collections are highly conceptual, often featuring pieces that straddle the line between sculpture and fashion. His website’s fact file includes gems such as, “The red thread throughout his collections is his sense of humour, sex with an eye-wink and his concern about ‘safe sex’. His continuous statements about the fashion-world,earth,nature, contempary life and society are collected in prints and slogans. Often ‘double bottomed’!”.
When I was an intern at Dazed and Confused, I assisted on a shoot where the models were playing football in these. The looks on people’s faces walking past was hilarious, particularly an old woman who hid in a bush next to where we were shooting and pretended to call the council. You can see that shoot here: